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AHAs and BHAs get a lot of attention in skincare—and for good reason. They help with everything from dullness and rough texture to breakouts and clogged pores. But while they can do a lot, using them the wrong way can easily throw your skin off balance.
So before you reach for that AHA BHA Exfoliating Serum, it helps to understand what AHAs and BHAs actually do, how they work differently, and what your skin needs to stay calm while getting the benefits.
What Exactly Are AHAs?
Let’s start with the basics. AHAs—short for Alpha Hydroxy Acids—are water-based exfoliants. They come from natural sources like sugar cane, milk, and certain fruits. You’ll mostly find them in products designed to smooth the skin’s surface, fade dark spots, or help with uneven tone.
AHAs break down the bonds that hold dead skin cells in place. Once those cells are cleared away, newer, brighter skin can show through. That’s why they’re often used to treat dullness, texture issues, and early signs of aging.
Now, not all AHAs are created equal. Some hit harder than others:
- Glycolic Acid is the strongest one in the group. It penetrates quickly and works well if your skin can handle a bit more intensity.
- Lactic Acid is milder. It also adds hydration, which makes it a great pick for dry or sensitive skin.
- Citric Acid and Mandelic Acid are even gentler, so they’re useful if you’re just starting out or tend to react easily to new ingredients.
What About BHAs?
BHAs—Beta Hydroxy Acids—work a little differently. While AHAs stay on the surface, BHAs go deeper. Since they’re oil-soluble, they can slip into your pores and clear out excess oil and debris. That’s what makes them so effective for acne-prone or oily skin.
The most common BHA you’ll see? Salicylic Acid. It’s been a go-to for years because it does a few things well. It breaks buildup that clogs pores, calms inflammation, and helps reduce redness from active breakouts.
Can You Use Both Together?
Short answer—yes, you can. But you need to be smart about it.
Here’s the idea: AHAs smooth and brighten the surface, while BHAs dive into the pores. Used together (in the right amounts), they can tackle multiple issues at once—texture, tone, congestion, and breakouts.
That said, layering both acids without thinking through concentration and timing is one of the fastest ways to irritate your skin. Some products are pre-formulated with both, and those are usually balanced enough for safe use. If you’re mixing separate products, take it slow. Space them out and keep an eye on how your skin reacts.
The Dos: How to Use AHA and BHA Without Wrecking Your Skin
Start Slow
If there’s one rule to stick to, it’s this: ease in. Start with two or three times a week, max. Your skin needs time to adjust. Rushing into daily use is how people end up with irritation, flaking, or worse.
Follow the Product’s Instructions
Seems obvious, but a lot of people skip this part. Not all acid serums are made the same—some are stronger, some have a different pH, and some need to be rinsed off. So, read the label. If the brand gives specific guidance on how often to use it or how to layer it, follow that.
Always Use Sunscreen
This one isn’t negotiable. AHAs and BHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, which means more risk of dark spots and damage. If you’re using acids, you have to wear SPF 30 or higher during the day. No exceptions.
Patch Test First
Before you slather something new all over your face, do a quick patch test. Try it behind your ear or along your jawline and wait 24 hours. If your skin stays calm, you’re good to go.
Moisturize After
Acids can dry out the skin—even the gentler ones. A simple, hydrating Ceramide Moisturizer helps lock in moisture and keeps your barrier from getting compromised. Don’t overthink it—just pick something that’s fragrance-free and barrier-friendly.
The Don’ts: What to Avoid When Using Acids
Don’t Overdo It
More exfoliation doesn’t mean better skin. In fact, using acids too often or layering multiple strong products can leave your skin red, raw, and sensitized. Unless your skin is very tolerant—and the formula is mild—stick to a few times a week.
Don’t Mix With Strong Actives
You don’t want to layer AHAs or BHAs with things like Retinol, Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), or Benzoyl Peroxide in the same routine. These combinations are too aggressive for most skin types and often lead to irritation. Spread them out across different days if you want to use them all.
Don’t Use on Damaged Skin
Got a sunburn, a raw breakout, or already irritated skin? Skip the acids. They’ll only make things worse. Let your skin heal first before going back to chemical exfoliants.
Don’t Apply Too Close to the Eyes
The skin around your eyes is thin and sensitive. Acids can sting and cause redness in that area, so keep the product away from your eye contour—even if it seems like nothing is happening at first.
Don’t Ignore Signs of Irritation
If your skin starts to sting, peel more than usual, or stay red for hours after application, take a step back. It’s better to take a break and reset your barrier than to push through and cause long-term sensitivity.
What If Your Skin Starts Reacting?
Even if you’re careful, your skin might still push back a bit when you first start using acids. That’s normal—up to a point. A little tingling? Fine. Some mild dryness? Also fine. But if it turns into peeling, burning, or long-lasting redness, it’s time to adjust.
Here’s how to handle it:
Pull Back on Frequency
First step: give your skin a breather. If you’re using acids three times a week, cut back to once or twice. Sometimes, spacing it out is all it takes to bring things back into balance.
Focus on Repair
Look for ingredients that help calm and support the skin barrier. Niacinamide, Aloe Vera, and Centella Asiatica are solid options. So is just sticking with a basic, no-frills moisturizer until things settle down.
Don’t Layer Too Many Actives
If you’re using acids, Retinol, Vitamin C, exfoliating masks, and spot treatments all in the same week—it’s probably too much. Give your routine some breathing room. One active at a time is plenty.
Prioritize Moisture and SPF
When your skin is irritated, hydration and protection matter more than anything else. A good moisturizer and daily SPF are non-negotiable while your skin resets.
FAQs
Can AHA and BHA actually damage your skin?
Yes — if you overdo it. Using high-strength acids too often, or combining them with other intense ingredients, can damage your skin barrier. That’s why slow, steady use is so important.
What should I avoid right after applying acids?
Skip harsh toners, scrubs, strong actives like Retinol, Benzoyl Peroxide, or high-strength Vitamin C. Also avoid sun exposure unless you’re wearing SPF. Stick to gentle, hydrating products post-acid.
Can I leave AHA or BHA serums on overnight?
You can — but only if the product is designed for leave-on use. Most are, but check the label. If you’re new to acids, try leaving it on for a shorter time first, just to see how your skin reacts.
Is it okay to use AHA or BHA every day?
Not for most people. Daily use is only safe if the formula is very gentle and your skin is already used to acids. Otherwise, two or three times a week is usually enough.
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