What is “normal skin” and does anyone really have it?

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Your version of normal skin is individual to you. Everything your skin is experiencing may be part of a bigger picture, and it might be more complex than checking a box.

Normal skin is most accurately characterized by what it’s not—not too oily, not too dry and just balanced enough. On the other hand, if you have a zit or congestion, doctors will refer to it as a problem. Products will promise to reverse it. People will tell you they know how to get rid of it. They’re talking about acne, wrinkles, texture, pores, scars, pigmentation and discoloration. All of these are classified as symptoms of skin that isn’t normal. That brings to question what normal even is. In a world where acne, texture and pigmentation is so pervasive, considering oily or acne-prone skin to be abnormal may be a part of the problem in the first place. We discuss where the term came from, what it means and whether it really exists.

Why are skin type segregations so popular?

Normal skin is a descriptor that I’ve seen everywhere. On billboards, on the backs of beauty products, in magazine articles, on TV advertisements. But I don’t know a single person that actually identifies this way. Normal isn’t descriptive—like oily, dry, sensitive or combination is—so the subjective word doesn’t actually mean anything. Plus, is getting zits or having dry patches not normal?

People might like categorization—it can sometimes be easier to pigeonhole yourself into a type based on a few tick-markable characteristics. In reality, nobody is just one skin type. Most people may have pigmentation on one part of their face, dry patches on another, and an oil slick when the temperatures increase. Plus, most people’s skin will change with the seasons, and with different periods in their life. Stress can render otherwise dry skin into a greasy and congested visage. Whereas ultra-low temperatures can leave oily skin into a sensitive, redness-prone type overnight. It’s not just major changes—your skin might be a hormonal zit-magnet on your period, but it may be dehydrated through the rest of the month. So sweeping on a strong exfoliating toner on the dry patches can only sensitize it further, while massaging in coconut oil on a greasy T-zone could only make the congestion worse.

How should you treat your skin now?

Things have been switched-up, though. Over the last decade, our approach to skincare has changed. Traditional beauty standards have been replaced by inclusivity and diversity. A wide array of tones and types are demanding a seat at the table. Yet, in a world of selfies, Facetune and Zoom, it can be all too easy to strive for a complexion that looks “normal”—glowing and lit-from-within, with nary a blemish nor flaw in sight.

We spoke to leading dermatologists and experts and they dialed in on the same concept. Referring to a normal skin type may be an old-fashioned way of looking at things. Not assigning morality to skin—abnormal or normal—can help reduce the shame that can come with blemishes, pigmentation or redness. Instead, it might be best to consider your base skin type (the kind that actually have descriptions!) and then treat the conditions you might be facing. For example, if your skin type is traditionally dry, but you have a random zit, keeping both in mind can help you find the right regimen that’ll work for you.

Skin is a living organ that interfaces with the outside environment to protect—its primary role is to be a physical barrier against foreign organisms. A glow is just a bonus. Ask a dermatologist, and they’ll tell you to stop putting yourself in a skin type box, and listen to your skin instead. This kind of intuitive beauty—where products are in a looser rotation rather than a sure-shot lineup—is a better idea, because you’re actually catering to what your skin needs in the moment—hydration, exfoliation or a little extra TLC. Oh, and that little spot you have on your chin? That’s 100% normal.

We think a simple and effective skincare routine is all you need to be on your way to its healthiest, most balanced version! Read more about how to build a basic skincare routine here

Have more questions? Reach out to us through WhatsApp and we are always happy to chat!

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Passionate about beauty, Srishty’s body of work spans 5 years. She loves novel makeup techniques, latest skincare trends, and pop culture references. When she isn’t working, you will find her reading, Netflix-ing or trying to bake something in her kitchen.

These are the skincare ingredients you shouldn’t layer with each other, EVER

August 12, 2021

3 min read

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Peanut butter and jelly, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Lopez, Vitamin C and ferulic acid. Some matches are made in heaven. But in the realm of lotions and potions, mixing and matching could be risky business instead. Learning to (not to) layer skincare is an art.

The benefits of your favourite skincare actives—Vitamin C! Niacinamide! Retinoids!— are all over the internet. It is easy to fall prey to the cure-all layering routines that promise smooth, poreless skin in just a few weeks. But that get-glow-quick scheme can leave your skin overstimulated if you’re whipping dangerous skincare cocktails. These are not only be harmful together, but could also cancel each other out. If you’re a neophyte, you may want to keep these ingredient non-pairings in mind before putting your routine together.

Retinoids + Vitamin C = redness, irritation and potential sunburns.

Retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives that rev up skin cell turnover. This unclogs dead skin cells and helps improve collagen production. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that blocks tyrosinase production (which is responsible for pigmentation) and scavenges free radicals too. Both these powerhouse ingredients are anti-ageing marvels. But when layered together, they leave your skin photosensitive, which can increase chances for sun damage. These ingredients have a huge pH gap, so if you wear both together, you could be lowering the retinoid’s pH and raising the Vitamin C’s pH levels. This means that both ingredients could be rendered useless. For best results, use a Vitamin C serum in the AM and then apply a Vitamin A-based product on at night.

Retinoids + Alpha Hydroxy Acids = raw, painful skin.

Retinoids and AHAs (like lactic or malic acid) both improve cell turnover, bolster collagen production and promise to leave your skin blemish, fine line and pigmentation-free. But if you’re tempted to use both together in an attempt to get brighter skin quicker, wait! Both remove dead skin layers on the top, thinning out the skin in the process. This can cause contact dermatitis, burns or scarring, especially if your skin isn’t used to exfoliation.

Retinoids + Benzoyl Peroxide = Irritation, and zero effects.

The theme here is to use retinoids carefully—they’re good servants, but bad masters. This is especially so when used with benzoyl peroxide. The two anti-acne ingredients work in very different ways, and may actually cancel out each other when used together. Benzoyl peroxide is able to kill the p.acnes bacteria that causes acne. Because when it is applied, it degrades and releases oxygen, which is able to kill the bacteria on the surface. Retinoids, on the other hand, work by reducing comedone creation by reducing pore obstructions by keratin and debris.

Benzoyl Peroxide + Vitamin C = no results.

If you have a zit and a patch of pigmentation, you may want to fix both, ASAP. But if you spot treat with BPO and then apply a Vitamin C-based toner, neither will actually work. Benzoyl peroxide works by creating oxygen, which oxidises the already-unstable L-ascorbic acid molecules, rendering them both useless.

We did an in-depth dive into the perils of acne and how to fix them, here.

Niacinamide + AHAs = potential irritation and redness.

Niacinamide helps restore cellular energy, repair damaged DNA, which makes it a cure-all ingredient that most pros love to suggest. While some people can tolerate these two ingredients together, some with sensitive skin may be worried about the niacin flush—which occurs when niacinamide hydrolyses into nicotinic acid when combined with an acidic product. This conversation can cause facial flushing, which can result in redness and tingling.

There really can be too much of a good thing—and some power duos are best used separately instead of together. It might be best to ease in actives and space them out, because too many strong ingredients–while they may feel satisfying in the short run—can hurt more than they can help.

The list of skincare DON’Ts is never ending – and we are happy to discuss it all with you! Click on our WhatsApp icon to chat with us at any time!

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Passionate about beauty, Srishty’s body of work spans 5 years. She loves novel makeup techniques, latest skincare trends, and pop culture references. When she isn’t working, you will find her reading, Netflix-ing or trying to bake something in her kitchen.

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Here’s why sunscreen has main character energy

August 12, 2021

4 min read

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IN THIS ARTICLE

  • 01

You can get away with skipping a serum, ditching your exfoliator or taking a break from a moisturiser. But sunscreen? That’s always going to be the protagonist in your routine.

We haven’t met a dermatologist, skincare junkie or well-wisher that doesn’t extoll the benefits of sun protection. If there’s anything you want to be on top of in the skincare realm, it’s your daily sunscreen application. UV rays from the sun can age skin cells, cause fine lines, exacerbate DNA damage and even cause skin cancer. So whether you’re working at home, in the car, on a flight, out at lunch or in transit, you’ll want to slather on sunscreen—a whole ½ a teaspoon all over your face.

Here’s how UV rays can wreak havoc

Ultraviolet radiation consists of three wavelengths—UVA, UVB and UVC. UVA rays penetrate the skin more deeply and are the primary cause of weakened elasticity. UVB rays target the outermost layers of the dermis and can cause sunburns and cancers. Collagen and elastin fibres are housed in the dermis, which is sandwiched between the epidermis and subcutaneous tissue. When these fibres are broken down, there is nothing to hold up the skin cells, which then can lead to fine lines, wrinkles and droopiness.

Added to the loss of collagen, which forms the building block of cells and keeps them plump and healthy, too much sun exposure can cause the formation of free radicals. These are unstable molecules that damage cells down to the molecular level. Even sunburns, which may feel transient and innocuous, are caused due to the breakdown of DNA in some skin cells. This can lead to red, irritated, painful skin.

What should you look for on a sunscreen label?

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is the amount of time it would take for you to get deep skincare damage (a sunburn, most often!) if you didn’t have sunscreen on. It filters out a certain percentage of the sun’s UVB rays and blocks them from damaging skin. So an SPF 30 can filter about 93% of UVB rays while SPF 50 can block out nearly 98%! This means that a sunscreen with a SPF 50 rating would keep you protected from UVB rays 50x longer than without. A sunscreen which is broad-spectrum, it contains ingredients that deflect UVA rays, making it a safer pick against all sun damage.

Sunscreens today have an added requirement—it is best if they protect from blue light. Blue light is the ever-pervasive visible light from your phone screens, computers and TVs. This high-energy visible (HEV) light causes changes in your skin cells, causing cell shrinkage and death, leading to pigmentation and a lack of elasticity.

Once you’ve found the SPF number you need (depending on how much sun you’re in, how long you’re going to be out for, and how often you’re willing to reapply), you can choose between a physical and chemical formula. Physical sunscreens are formulated with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which form a physical barrier on the skin and deflect light. The caveat—they can leave a white cast. The higher you go, the more likely you’ll get a glue-like, gloopy texture. If you’d rather use a chemical sunscreen, you’ll find avobenzone and oxybenzone, which absorb UV rays and break them down.

Can’t pick? Enter today’s hybrid sunscreens—which can combine the elegance of a chemical-active based formula with the broad-spectrum coverage of mineral ingredients. You’ll get a sunscreen that feels comfortable to use, doesn’t get chalky and protects without sensitising. Ultimately though, the best sunscreen is the one you’re ready to wear every single day. You’ll wear it when you’re just binging TV shows in bed. You’ll have it handy when you go on vacation. And you’ll layer it on under makeup when you’re going to brunch. Eventually, sunscreen is at the very crux of your skincare narrative, and it’s saying, loud and clear: apply me, don’t forget about me, and tell all your friends about me too.

We think SPF is the most important part of flawless, glowing skin. If you want to know more about how to pick the right one for you – contact us on WhatsApp!

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Passionate about beauty, Srishty’s body of work spans 5 years. She loves novel makeup techniques, latest skincare trends, and pop culture references. When she isn’t working, you will find her reading, Netflix-ing or trying to bake something in her kitchen.

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