There are many misconceptions about niacinamide, a multipurpose skincare ingredient, stemming from concerns about its potency, purging, and ingredient interactions. What matters more than the percentage is the concentration, formulation, and skin tolerance when making a selection, which might range from 10% to stronger alternatives.

What do you think? Is 12% niacinamide too much for beginners? Probably not. Serums of 12% concentration aren't always harsher; some are made with delivery mechanisms that are easy for beginners to use, such as double encapsulation, which helps manage release. 

In this article, we'll explain what niacinamide is, why 12% is better than 10%, how to include it in your regimen, and whether or not it's appropriate for beginners, busting all the myths around the same. 

What Does Niacinamide Do for Skin? 

Nicotinamide, another name for niacinamide, is a kind of vitamin B3 that is used in skincare products to address various issues. Niacinamide is commonly used in skincare to help manage excess oil, improve the appearance of uneven pigmentation, and support the skin barrier. 

10 Common Niacinamide Myths, Debunked 

• Myth 1: Niacinamide and Vitamin C Cancel Each Other Out

Myth. Niacinamide and vitamin C can generally be used together. The idea that they cancel each other out comes from concerns based on older experimental conditions that do not accurately represent how modern skincare products are typically formulated. Even while they have different benefits, niacinamide and vitamin C can generally be used together.

• Myth 2: Niacinamide Causes Purging

Does niacinamide cause purging? Usually, no. The use of retinoids and exfoliating acids, which increase the rate at which skin cells regenerate, is often associated with purging. If you start using niacinamide and then notice breakouts, redness, itching, burning, or dryness, don't think it's because you're purging. It could be irritation or sensitivity to another ingredient in the formulation. If this occurs, simplify your routine, cut back on usage, or stop using it.

Bottom line: Niacinamide is not generally considered a purging ingredient, so new breakouts or irritation should not automatically be attributed to purging. 

• Myth 3: Niacinamide Whitens or Lightens Skin Tone

If you're searching for niacinamide for skin lightening or skin whitening, it's important to understand what the ingredient can and cannot do.  Niacinamide does not bleach skin or permanently change your natural skin tone. Research has found that niacinamide can inhibit melanosome transfer, with one study reporting 35–68% inhibition under its experimental conditions. It reduces how much pigment reaches the skin's surface cells and fades post-acne marks and dark spots without switching off melanin production or changing your baseline complexion. 

• Myth 4: Niacinamide and Retinol Shouldn't Be Mixed

Myth. Niacinamide and retinol can generally be used together. Many skincare routines incorporate both ingredients because of their different benefits. Niacinamide, which helps maintain the skin's protective barrier, is a great addition to retinol-rich routines.

Layering the two essentials from thin to thick as directed on the product label will help you see visible results. Starting to use multiple active ingredients at once can be overwhelming, so it's best to ease into retinol if you're new to it or have sensitive skin. In most cases, retinol and niacinamide work well together. 

• Myth 5: Niacinamide and Nicotinamide Are Different Ingredients

Are niacinamide and nicotinamide the same thing? Yes. Niacinamide and nicotinamide are two names for the same amide form of Vitamin B3.  Most brands use them interchangeably on packaging. The compound worth keeping separate is niacin, also called nicotinic acid. It is a chemically distinct form of B3 that is associated with flushing at high doses. 

Bottom line: Niacinamide and nicotinamide are two names for the same form of Vitamin B3, while niacin is a different form. 

• Myth 6: Niacinamide Alone Can Erase Acne Scars

Does niacinamide help acne scars? It can help improve the appearance of flat acne marks, but it cannot repair true indented or textured acne scars. Acne marks are usually areas of discoloration left after inflammation, while textured acne scars involve changes to the skin's structure. 

Niacinamide can be useful for flat, discoloured marks left after acne, which are different from true textured acne scars. Its effects on pigmentation are associated in part with reducing melanosome transfer. However, niacinamide cannot rebuild collagen lost in indented or atrophic acne scars. 

• Myth 7: A Higher Percentage Always Works Better

While 10% niacinamide is a commonly used concentration, 12% offers a higher-strength option.  Not only does percentage matter for efficacy, but so does the entire formulation, delivery system, and skin tolerance.

Foxtale's 12% Niacinamide Clarifying Serum combines a 12% concentration with double encapsulation technology, designed to support controlled delivery of the active. This makes it a higher-strength, beginner-friendly option for those looking to move beyond commonly seen 10% niacinamide formulas. 

If you're new to niacinamide, introduce the serum gradually and monitor how your skin responds rather than assuming that a higher concentration needs to be used more frequently.

Bottom line: 12% is higher than 10%, but higher does not automatically mean harsher or better. The formulation and your skin's tolerance matter too.

• Myth 8: Niacinamide Permanently Shrinks Pores

Pore size is largely genetic. There is no topical ingredient that can change the anatomy of a hair follicle. Does niacinamide shrink pores? Not permanently. However, by helping to manage excess sebum and improve skin texture, niacinamide may make pores look less noticeable. 

Bottom line: Niacinamide cannot permanently shrink pores, but it may make them appear less noticeable by helping manage excess oil and improving skin texture. 

• Myth 9: Niacinamide Is Only for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin

Niacinamide's barrier-supporting properties help enhance all skin types in its own way. This active ingredient can be used by anyone, not just those with oily or acne-prone skin. It can also fit into routines for dry or sensitive skin because of its barrier-supporting properties. 

The ideal product format depends on your skin's needs and the other actives in your routine. Those who like a more moisturiser-based approach can incorporate niacinamide alongside barrier-supportive skincare with Foxtale's Niacinamide Moisturizer. 

Bottom line: Niacinamide isn't just for oily or acne-prone skin; it can also support the skin barrier in dry or sensitive skin routines.

• Myth 10: Niacinamide Always Causes Flushing or Stinging

The flushing response is documented with nicotinic acid at high oral doses. Topical niacinamide does not typically cause the same flushing response associated with nicotinic acid. Some people may experience mild irritation or tingling when introducing a new product, but persistent burning, redness, itching, or discomfort should not be assumed to be a normal adjustment period. If this occurs, reduce frequency or stop using the product and simplify your routine. 

Bottom line: Niacinamide is different from flushing-causing nicotinic acid, but irritation can still occur with any skincare product. 

How to Use Niacinamide Serum 

The importance of consistently using niacinamide outweighs the importance of constantly switching products or adding multiple actives simultaneously.
 

1. Step 1: Start with clean skin: Before you apply your niacinamide serum, make sure your face is clean and dry. Use a nourishing cleanser that nourishes your skin and helps absorb other ingredients easily. 
 

2. Step 2: Apply your niacinamide serum: Apply the amount recommended on the product label. If you're new to niacinamide, introduce it gradually and monitor how your skin responds. If you're new to niacinamide, introduce it gradually. 
 

3. Step 3: Follow with moisturiser: To round out your regimen, use a moisturiser to help maintain your skin's protective barrier.

4. Step 4: Finish your morning routine with sunscreen: Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen as the final step of your morning skincare routine. An integral component of pigmentation management is sun protection.

5. Step 5: Introduce other active ingredients gradually: Niacinamide can generally be used with ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol. If you're introducing a new active, add one product at a time so you can identify the cause if irritation occurs. 

Can You Use Niacinamide Every Day?

Yes, niacinamide can usually be used on a regular basis as long as your skin can tolerate it. Depending on how your skin reacts, beginners can start with a lower frequency and work their way up. If you're using a higher-strength formula such as 12%, follow the product directions and introduce it gradually if you're new to niacinamide. 

Should You Use Niacinamide in the Morning or at Night?

Niacinamide can generally be used in either a morning or evening routine. If you use it in the morning, finish your routine with sunscreen. 

Conclusion

Niacinamide's reputation has suffered from decades of misquoted lab studies and oversimplified social media takes, along with marketing that has attached too many promises to it. If you use the actual ingredient at the right concentration in a well-formulated product, it is genuinely one of the most versatile things out there. It can suit almost every skin type and concern. The myths are not worth the confusion they create.

While both niacinamide and vitamin C are well-known for their effectiveness in skincare products, they do several different things to address pigmentation, acne marks, uneven skin tone, and dark spots. So, which is better: Niacinamide or Vitamin C? The better choice depends on your primary skin concern. Niacinamide helps regulate excess oil, support the skin barrier, and improve the appearance of post-acne marks, while Vitamin C provides antioxidant protection and can improve the appearance of dullness, uneven skin tone, and pigmentation. If your skin is able to handle both, you have the option to utilize Niacinamide and Vitamin C together. 

This guide compares Niacinamide vs Vitamin C for pigmentation, dark spots, acne marks, and different skin types, and explains how to use both together in a simple skincare routine. 

Niacinamide or Vitamin C: Which Is Better?

There is no universal winner between Niacinamide and Vitamin C. The better ingredient depends on what you want to treat.

1. Vitamin C: When sun exposure is a factor in skin dullness, uneven tone, or pigmentation, its antioxidant properties make it a good alternative to consider. 

2. Niacinamide: Niacinamide has shown effectiveness in treating acne scars, excessive oiliness, and skin tone imbalances. If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, it could be a suitable place to start because it is usually well-tolerated. 

Choose Niacinamide if your main concerns are:

• Excess oil
• Acne-prone skin
• Post-acne marks
• Uneven-looking skin
• Skin-barrier support

Choose Vitamin C if your main concerns are:

• Dull-looking skin
• Uneven skin tone
• Dark spots and pigmentation
• Antioxidant protection
• Supporting collagen synthesis 

For Foxtale shoppers, the 12% Niacinamide Clarifying Serum is a targeted option for oily, acne-prone skin and post-acne marks, while the 10% Vitamin C-Glutathione Advanced Brightening Serum is better suited to dullness, uneven skin tone and pigmentation. 

Pro tip: Niacinamide can help improve the appearance of pigmentation and uneven skin tone when used consistently. It might feel difficult to choose the right niacinamide concentration, but the right guide may help you choose the ideal product according to your skin requirements. 

How Do They Work? 

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, supports the skin barrier, helps regulate excess oil, and can improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and post-acne marks. Studies on topical niacinamide have also shown benefits for the appearance of hyperpigmentation. 
 

The antioxidant properties of vitamin C aid in enhancing the protection of skin cells against oxidative stress and in the stimulation of collagen production. Additionally, with regular usage, it can help improve the appearance of dullness, uneven skin tone, and pigmentation.
 

Instead of having to pick between the two, you may use Niacinamide and Vitamin C together as they both focus on different aspects of skin health. 

Difference Between Niacinamide and Vitamin C

How To Use Niacinamide and Vitamin C Together

Yes, Niacinamide and Vitamin C can be used in the same skincare routine if your skin tolerates both. When layering them, apply Vitamin C first, followed by Niacinamide, moisturizer, and sunscreen in the morning. If you have sensitive skin, introduce one active at a time.

When tolerated, these ingredients can be used together to target different aspects of dullness, uneven skin tone, pigmentation, and post-acne marks.

Morning Routine

• Gentle cleanser
• Vitamin C serum
• Niacinamide serum
• Moisturizer
• Broad-spectrum SPF 50 sunscreen

Night Routine

• Gentle cleanser
• Niacinamide serum
• Hydrating moisturizer

Pro tip: If you have sensitive skin, start with lower concentrations and use the products every other day before slowly adding them into your daily skincare routine. 

Which Goes First: Vitamin C or Niacinamide? 

When using both products in the same morning routine, apply Vitamin C first, followed by Niacinamide, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Always follow the application instructions for your specific products.  As a rule of thumb, always refer to the product's instructions for texture and application. 

What Is Vitamin C & How Does It Benefit Your Skin?

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps protect skin from oxidative stress and can improve the appearance of dullness, uneven skin tone, and pigmentation. In addition to supporting brighter-looking skin, Vitamin C can:

1. Boost collagen production
2. Defend against oxidative stress
3. Improve overall skin radiance
4. Support brighter-looking skin

Learn more about the advantages of vitamin C serum, how to use it, and the top ingredients for pigmentation. 

Pro Tip: Layering too many actives is not as important as consistency. The finest long-term outcomes come from a straightforward regimen that is consistently followed. Check out our comprehensive information on common mistakes to avoid while using niacinamide, if you're still unsure about combining these chemicals for the best results.

What Is Niacinamide & How Does It Help With Dark Spots & Pigmentation? 

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that supports the skin barrier, helps regulate excess oil, and can improve the appearance of post-acne marks and uneven skin tone. 

Key Benefits of Niacinamide

• Helps improve the appearance of dark spots and post-acne marks 
• Reduces redness and inflammation
• Strengthens the skin barrier
• Regulates the production of extra oil

Pro tip: Niacinamide can be a useful option for oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin because it supports the skin barrier while helping regulate excess oil and improve the appearance of post-acne marks. When used regularly over time, niacinamide's science-backed compatibility with your skin works effectively for sensitive, oily, and acne-prone skin. 

Niacinamide vs Vitamin C for Pigmentation: Which Is Better? 

Although they have distinct mechanisms of action, niacinamide and vitamin C both have the potential to reduce the visibility of pigmentation. Vitamin C may be particularly useful for dullness, uneven tone, and sun-related pigmentation, while Niacinamide can be especially useful for post-acne marks alongside its oil-control and barrier-supporting benefits.  For pigmentation accompanied by excess oil or post-acne marks, Niacinamide may be the better starting point. If dullness, uneven tone or sun-related pigmentation is the main concern, Vitamin C may be a better fit.

Which Is Better for Your Skin Type? 

The better choice also depends on your skin type and primary concern. Here's how Niacinamide and Vitamin C compare for oily, dry, sensitive, and Indian skin. Both are powerful brightening agents, but they target dullness, uneven skin tone, dark spots, and acne marks in distinct ways.

Here's how to choose the one that works best for your skin:

1. For Skin That Is Oily and Prone to Acne

If you have oily or acne-prone skin and are concerned about excess oil, breakouts, or post-acne marks, niacinamide is usually a good place to start. In addition to improving the appearance of post-acne marks, it helps control sebum production and strengthens the skin's protective barrier.

Concerns including overproduction of sebum, acne, and dark patches are the inspiration for Foxtale's 12% Niacinamide Serum, which combines Niacinamide with Azelaic Acid and is formulated for concerns such as excess oil, acne, and the appearance of dark spots.  If you're worried about your skin seeming dull or uneven in tone, you can add vitamin C if your skin can handle it. Check out our beginner's guide to Vitamin C serum if you're wondering if vitamin C is appropriate for skin prone to breakouts. To comprehend how it functions in conjunction with active acne. 

2. For Dehydrated and Dry Skin

For dry or dehydrated skin, neither ingredient is automatically better. Niacinamide and vitamin C work together to strengthen the skin's protective barrier and alleviate signs of dullness and uneven tone. Once your skin is ready, you may apply both of these products in addition to a hydrating moisturizer and a daily SPF 50 sunscreen. 

The lightweight gel-cream texture of Foxtale's Super Glow Moisturizer with Vitamin C helps lighten pigmentation while providing intense hydration. It also improves the general clarity and brightness of the skin since it contains niacinamide.

3. For Sensitive Skin

For sensitive or easily irritated skin, Niacinamide may be a better starting point because it is generally well tolerated and supports the skin barrier. Start gradually and reduce frequency if irritation occurs. If you're considering a higher-strength Niacinamide formula, introduce it gradually rather than assuming a higher concentration will work better for sensitive skin. 

Read More: To answer all your doubts, we are here to help with ‘Is Foxtale's 12% Niacinamide Serum Safe To Use?’

4. For Indian Skin Type: 

What matters more than skin tone when it comes to Indian skin is the primary skin concern. For skin that's oily, acne-prone, or has post-acne scars, niacinamide can be a good choice; for skin that's dull, uneven in tone, or has pigmentation from the sun, vitamin C can be better. If you're dealing with more than one issue at once and your skin is tolerating both, you can apply them together. 

Conclusion

There is no one ‘better’ ingredient when it comes to niacinamide vs. vitamin C. It all depends on your skin type, issues, and skincare goals. Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, controls excess oil, and fades acne scars, while vitamin C brightens dull skin and lessens sun-induced pigmentation. Fortunately, you don't have to decide between the two. 

When combined, niacinamide and vitamin C can more successfully address dullness, uneven skin tone, and dark spots. Over time, you can get healthier, more balanced-looking skin by combining these substances with a mild skincare regimen and regular sunscreen. Discover beginner-friendly formulas in Foxtale's science-backed skincare range to assist you in creating the ideal skin-brightening regimen.